| Scope | Estimated range |
|---|---|
| Frame + sash (existing opening) | $280 – $650 |
| Full-frame (no structural work) | $450 – $1,100 |
| With rot repair | $700 – $1,600 |
| With structural repair | $1,200 – $2,100 |
| Trim + paint add | +$80 – $250 |
Ranges reflect installed cost including materials and labor for typical residential work. The low end of each range corresponds to a basic vinyl configuration; the high end reflects premium frames, upgraded glazing, and larger units. Last reviewed 2026-11-12.
A frame replacement is not a surface job. The sashes come out, the old frame is cut or pried from the rough opening, and the new frame is shimmed, squared, and sealed. The sashes then go back or are replaced with the frame.
Vinyl does not rot, but wood frames do, and the damage usually starts behind the exterior trim where water sits. What looks like a small soft spot often extends into the sill and the jack studs, which is why exploratory demolition changes quotes.
A frame replaced without new flashing and backer rod will leak again. Flashing tape, sill pan, and proper air sealing are inexpensive materials and the most commonly skipped step, and they are the difference between a 20-year repair and a 5-year one.
Not exactly. Frame replacement replaces the frame and sashes within the existing rough opening. Full-frame replacement removes the frame to the rough opening and rebuilds the connection to the wall, flashing, and trim.
Probe the sill and lower corners with a screwdriver. Soft wood, crumbling paint, or a spongy feel means rot. Visible staining on interior drywall below the window is a strong sign the leak has been running for a while.
Sometimes, for insert-style work. Full-frame replacement usually requires removing siding around the opening to install flashing correctly. Any contractor claiming full-frame work with no siding removal is worth questioning.